CPUT researchers are using phytosome nanotechnology – an emerging field – to enhance the bioavailability of Rooibos extracts in skin formulations.
Previous studies that pointed to Rooibos’ protective effect against inflammation in skin cells, is what prompted Dr Mariska Lilly, Senior Researcher of Proteomics & Molecular Biology at the Applied Microbial and Health Biotechnology Institute (AMHBI) of CPUT to probe further.
Lilly is working with:
- Dr Stefan Abel (Adjunct Scholar) at AMHBI (phytosome development)
- Dr Celeste Abrahams (Previous Postdoctoral fellow at AMHBI) (phytosome development)
- Dr Hapiloe Maranyane and Dr Tandeka Magcwebeba (Previous Postdoctoral fellows at AMHBI) contributed to determine the amount of herbal tea to use for preventing or treating inflammation, as well as in the development of biomarkers for inflammation in skin cells.
“We knew that once the skin was exposed to the sun’s ultra-violet (UV) rays, Rooibos extracts could remove precancerous damaged cells and block the onset of inflammation. It does so by hindering the multiplication of inflamed cells and ridding the body of them.
“Our studies went a step further. Instead of just studying one biomarker, we looked at several, and found the same to be true. Rooibos indeed has a powerful anti-inflammatory effect, which protects the skin from the damaging effects of the sun, changing environmental conditions and pollution. However, the concentration of the Rooibos extract must be just right.”
She says it’s the combination of polyphenols (antioxidants) – natural compounds found in Rooibos – which gives it it’s restorative ability.
“Because of their potential health benefits to humans, phytochemicals (bioactive polyphenolic compounds) in plants and herbs have been studied extensively in recent years. These compounds not only protect the plant throughout its lifecycle, but are responsible for its colour, aroma and flavour. Given their positive biological effect, higher safety margins and lower cost than synthetic agents, it has led to a significant increase in the demand for herbal products globally.”
Rooibos’ potent bioactivity against various diseases – by scavenging free radicals (harmful compounds or elements) in the body and its ability to be utilised in the production of cosmetics and dietary supplements – has caught the attention of the scientific world and the public at large. Researchers are studying its ability to heal wounds, relieve burns and other skin conditions, including eczema, acne, urticaria, pruritus, psoriasis and other bacterial and fungal skin diseases, among a host of other ailments.
Lilly explains that up until now the bioavailability (proportion of active ingredient that is absorbed by cells and that can have an effect when introduced into the body) of many plant extracts, including Rooibos, have been limited.
“But, by loading Rooibos’ polyphenolic compounds (extracts) in a novel nano-delivery system will facilitate their penetration across the skin barriers, thereby enhancing their topical bioavailability.
“Nanocarriers will not only help to protect the bioactive compounds in Rooibos from oxidation and degradation, but can improve the solubility, absorption, long-term benefits, as well as their stability (shelf life).
She explained that a phytosome is a complex made between herbal extracts and dietary phospholipid and shows improved bioavailability and absorption.
“We will use an enriched concentration of Rooibos total polyphenols packed inside a vesicle that resembles a cell.’
Before making the Rooibos phytosome available to the market, more research will be conducted to determine the right concentration of Rooibos and rate of bioavailability. This will then be followed by clinical trials in humans where phytosome prototypes will be tested in small skin biopsies.
She said the development of a scientifically data-based skin protection product is envisaged, strengthening the value and marketability of rooibos.
“This will be a tested product, with known polyphenol concentrations, and scientific data supporting its claims. What we found is that Rooibos protects against inflammation in skin cells, and chronic inflammation is one of the hallmarks of skin cancer development. The idea is to develop a pre- and after-sun lotion containing Rooibos-phytosomes that will aid in the prevention of UVB skin inflammation.”
For more information on Rooibos research, visit www.sarooibos.co.za
Written by Ilse Fredericks
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